If you're reading this, I would like to thank you for watching the video I made for this sweater! Because that's how you find out about this blog page! ^-^
Christmas is coming! So I figured I should make a Christmas sweater for myself this year. This is the most sophisticated sweater I've ever crocheted. It really takes a lot of work! It's not that the stitches are difficult, but because I did not have a plan when I started. The stitches are pretty basic. What makes it so unique is the colours. So... if you plan to follow the pattern below, be prepared! I will try to explain as best as I can. This is the first time I'm writing down a pattern, if you have any questions, please do no hesitate to ask! You can also refer to the video tutorial when in need.
SUPPLIES YOU'LL NEED
Medium #4 or Worsted #3 yarn. I used the below colours, yardage is for size S. And this is just an estimate, as I did have plenty of yarn left :)
Green: 450 yard
White: 150 yard
Cream: 400 yard
Red: 150 yard
Yellow: 150 yard
Brown: 100 yard
Crochet hook: 5mm (body), 4mm(ribbings)
Tapestry needle, scissors
Here's all the yarns I used:
The sweater is constructed by one body part and two sleeves, all worked in rounds. I choose to work in rounds because it's easier to hide the ends when switching colours. So you just attach the two sleeves when finish. All the stitch counts in the () is for my sample size, which fits bust 32/34, waist 26, usually a size S. If you need a larger or smaller size, please adjust based on your measurements. I'm pretty new to writing patterns as I said. Please do bare with me.
fd = foundation chain ch = chain
sc = single crochet dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet fl hdc = half double crochet front loop only
dc ext = extended double crochet. tc = triple crochet
Popcorn = 5 dc in one sts, 1st and last joined together
Bow Stitch = ch6, 4sc from 3rd ch from hook; ch6, 4sc from 3rd ch from hook; ch21, from 2nd ch from hook, 1sc, 2hdc, 4dc, 2hdc, 2sc, 2 hdc, 4dc, 2 hdc, 1sc, slip joint with 1st sc. (this one is pretty tricky, please refer to video if in doubt)
ch2 at the beginning of rows are considered 1 dc, ch3 at the beginnig of rows are considered a tc for this pattern.
Foundation ch 11 (with green yarn)
Row 1: hdc on 2nd ch from hook. (10 hdc)
Row 2: ch1, turn, hdc on each st. (10 hdc)
Row 3: ch1, turn, fl hdc in the first 9 sts, hdc in last st. (9 flhdc, 1 hdc)
Repeat row2-3 until you reach the desired length for your waist. I made 114 rows in total, my waist measurement is 26 inch.
Join both ends with slip stitches or your preferred method. Please markers on both sides.
Now we start to work on the body part. Place a stitch marker on the first st as this would be the side of the body. I always start with this st, unless specified.
Row 1: sc evenly along the long side of the ribbing ring, stitch count should be a multiply of 8, I have 136 stitches for my size. join with slip stitch. (136)
Row 2 (increase 24): ch2, dc on each st, distribute increases evenly around the row, by the end of this row, I have 160 sts. This would be the width of the body. If you want more space in the bust, increase more, just keep in mind the final stitch count must be a multiple of 8.
Row 3: (brown). ch1, sc on same st, sc on next 2, *ch7, skip the next 3 sts, sc on the next 5*, repeat * until you finish this row, the final stitches should be 2 sc. Cut yarn and join using the invisible sewing method.
Row 4: (green) ch2, dc on next 2, *tc on the skipped 3 sts from row 2, dc on next 5*, repeat * until finish the row, the last 2 sts should be 2 dc, join and cut yarn.
Row 5: (brown) ch1, sc on same st, ch7, skip3, *sc on next (also on center of the ch7 from row3), ch7, skip 3 sts*, repeat * until the end, cut yarn and join,
Row 6: (white) ch2 on the starting sc from row5 (works as a dc), tc on next 3, *dc on next sc, tc on next 3*, repeat * until finish the row.
Row 7: (brown) re-attach yarn on top of the ch7 and the st behind it, ch1, sc on same st, ch7, skip3, *sc on next (also on center of the ch7 from row3), ch7, skip 3 sts*, repeat * until the end, cut yarn and weave in the end.
Row 8: (cream or beige?) ch3, tc on next, *5dc on next 5 sc, 3 tc on next 3*, repeat till finish the row.
Row 9: (yellow) re-attach yarn 1 st backwards to the marked center st, ch1, sc on same st, popcorn on next (also on center of the ch7 from row 7), *7 sc on the next 7 sts, popcorn on the next center top*, repeat * till finish the row.
Row 10: (cream/beige?) ch2, ext.dc on each st, including the popcorn. Now you have finished a 'cupcake'!
Row 11- 26: repeat row3-10 (that's 3 cupcake patterns). On row 26 (the ext. dc row), you'll need to split on both sides of the body, work on the front and the back seperately, so that you'll have an armhole for the sleeves.
When you split, add 1 st to row 26, for example, orignally I have 80 sts for each panel, but I'll add 1 stitch to each side and make it 81, so that our pattern would work better.
Row 27: (green), ext.dc along the row. (wrong side)
Row 28: (green), sc along the row. (right side)
Row 29: (green), ext.dc along the row. (wrong side)
Row 30 and 31 are bow stitches. Each bow takes 2 stitches, to determine how many bows you want, mark the location from the center of the body.
For the sample piece, I made 5 bows and had them evenly distrbuted along the row.
Row 30:(red), sc until you reach the first bow location, ch6, sc on 3rd ch from hook, make 4 sc, ch6 again, sc on 3rd ch from hook, make 4 sc, (now you have the tails for the bow). Then ch21, from 2nd ch from the hook, do the following:
1sc, 2hdc, 4dc, 2hdc, 2sc, 2hdc, 4dc, 2hdc, 1sc (20sts in total to form the wavy stitches for the bow)
Now join the 1st sc on the other end with a slip st. Skip the next 2 sts on row 29, sc along until you reach the 2nd bow location, make another bow.
Row 31: sc along the row, when reach the bow, adjust the bow structure, put 2 single crochets around the bow and onto the 2 sts we skipped before. That's how you can secure the bow.
If you have any doubt understanding the text, please refer to the video :)
Row 32: (cream) ext. dc along the row
Row 33: (cream) sc along the row
Row 34: (cream) ext. dc along the row
Row 35: (brown) sc along the row
Row 36: (yellow) *7sc + 1 popcorn*, repeat * along the row
Row 37: (cream) ext. dc along the row
Row 38: (green) ext. dc along the row
Row 39: (red/brown, your choice) *1sc + 7ch*, repeat *along the row
Row 40: (white) *3 tc + 1 dc*, repeat * long the row
Row 41: (red/brown) *5 sc + 7ch*, repeat * along the row
Row 42: (cream) *5dc + 3tc*, repeat * along the row
Row 43: (yellow) *7sc + 1 popcorn*, repeat * along the row
Starting from Row 44, work on both sides seperately for the shoulder. I made 28 sts on each side
Row 44: (cream) 28 ext.dc along the row
Row 45: (cream) 28 sc along the row
Row 46: (green) 28 ext. dc along the row. fasten off, leave a long tail for shoulder seaming.
Work on the other shoulder.
After you finish both shoulders, sew the front piece and back piece together. I also make a row of single crochets around the armhole, it ended up having 64 stitches. Mark this number, as we'll be using it to determine the final stitch count on the sleeves.
Row 1: sc around the neckline.
Then make a ribbing at your desired collar height. I have 3 sts here.
Foundation ch 9(with green yarn)
Row 1: hdc on 2nd ch from hook. (8 hdc)
Row 2: ch1, turn, hdc on each st. (8 hdc)
Row 3: ch1, turn, fl hdc in the first 9 sts, hdc in last st. (7 flhdc, 1 hdc)
Repeat row2-3 until you reach the desired length for your waist. I have 24 rows for the sample piece. Sew the short ends together and form a ring.
Row 1: crochet along the long side of the ribbing. Evenly sc around the row. Keep in mind that st count should be a multiply of 8 like the body part. I have 32 sts for row 1.
Row 2: work double crochets along the row. Increase on every other st. I have 48 dc for row 2.
From Row 3 to Row 25, repeat the pattern as the body part.
Row 26: ext. dc around the row. No need to split.
Row 27-Row 29: repeat pattern on body part.
Row 30-31: make bows on the outside of the sleeve only. You don't want to have anything under the armpit here. I have it explained in the video as well. :)
Row 32: ext. dc around the row
Row 33: increase 8 sts. As I have 48 sts, I increase on every 5 sts, which leaves me 56 sts after row 33.
Row 34: increase 8 sts. I have 64 sts by the end of this row. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing the sleeves.
The reason why I increase in the last rows is because I have 64 stitches on the armhole of the body. If you have more, just increase more on the sleeves. That way, you can match the stitches perfectly.
And that's all for this sweater! I hope you like it!